If you're reading this, chances are you're a fan of craft beer — and there's an even better chance you're a fan of Virginia craft beer specifically. And if that's the case, you know the feeling of sitting down at a restaurant and discovering they not only have your Virginia favorites available, but a few you haven't tried yet. That's a good day.
That feeling is exactly what keeps me coming back to places like Caboose Market & Cafe in historic Ashland, Virginia. This is the third installment in my series for VA Craft Beer Magazine celebrating restaurants across the Commonwealth that are embracing Virginia's craft beer culture — and Caboose earns its place on that list with ease.
Caboose has been a fixture in Ashland since 1997, when founder Ian Kirkland opened it as a wine and beer shop with a passion for Belgian ales and fine wine. For nearly two decades, it thrived as just that — until a couple of locals convinced Ian to knock a hole in the wall and add a restaurant. What started as a casual spot to grab a bagel and a beer quickly evolved into something the town itself shaped. "It wasn't any verbal 'this needs to be this way,'" recalls owner Nick Gay. "It was just kind of the way that they came in — they didn't want to go up to the counter and order anything. They wanted to sit down and have an experience. So, we said, okay, that's how we're going to do it."
Nick came to Caboose the way a lot of great things happen — organically. His brother worked there first, singing its praises. Nick was down the street at the Iron Horse Restaurant. When Ian was ready to move on and spend more time with his family, Nick stepped up. He didn't want to see the place change hands to someone who might lose what made it special. "I wanted to see it continue being community-driven," he says. "I don't have any desires to completely change the format." He's kept the soul of the place intact while quietly putting his own stamp on it.
The food at Caboose is farm-to-table in the truest sense — not as a marketing buzzword, but as a genuine commitment to the farms and producers surrounding Ashland. Beef comes from Charity Hill Farms in Ruther Glen. Chicken from Rubicon Farm & Ranch. Pork from Pink House Farm. Fruits from Agriberry Farm and CSA out of Mechanicsville. Vegetables from Deer Run Farm. The menu changes seasonally, but a few things never leave. The Grilled Cornbread appetizer — made with Deep Roots Milling Cornmeal and AR's Mild Hot Southern Honey — is a perennial favorite, as is the Pimento Cheese, served with toasted house-made crostini. The Engineer's Burger, built on Charity Hill Farms ground beef with house pimento cheese, sriracha mayo, Farmstead Ferments kimchi kraut, and a La Bella Vita Bakery brioche bun, is a fan favorite that earns every bit of its reputation. The Grown Up Grilled Cheese — Terra di Siena prosciutto, mozzarella, Deer Run Farms Hanover tomatoes, and house pesto panini-pressed on La Bella Vita Bakery long country white bread — runs a close second. And this summer, the Life's A Peach salad, featuring Agriberry Farm and CSA peaches tossed in a jalapeño-peach vinaigrette with mozzarella pearls and candied pecans, has been turning heads.
Now, the beer.
Caboose runs eight taps with a simple but thoughtful philosophy — variety over brand loyalty. Nick keeps a lager, an IPA, and a cider as anchors, then uses the remaining taps to have fun, stay seasonal, and explore. Virginia producers anchor the list, with Ardent Craft Ales, Commonwealth Brewing Company, Potter's Craft Cider, and Benchtop Brewing Company recently on tap. "Virginia's got great beer," Nick says plainly. "They're going to get my loyalty before I give it to anybody else." He curates by style rather than name, making sure the dark beer drinker, the hop head, and the lager lover all have a home at the bar. And if nothing on tap suits your mood, grab something cold from the retail side and enjoy it right there with a corkage fee — a perk that keeps everyone happy.
What's particularly refreshing is Nick's relationship with Origin Beer Lab, the brewery located right next door. Rather than viewing them as competition, the two businesses actively send customers to each other. Caboose food is welcome at Origin's patio. Origin regulars who want to find a beer they loved on tap get sent to Caboose to track it down. It's the kind of symbiotic community relationship this series was built to highlight.
Looking ahead, Nick has his eyes on expanding the kitchen — a modest but meaningful goal for a restaurant punching well above its weight in one of the smallest kitchens in Ashland. Whatever comes next, Caboose Market & Cafe isn't going anywhere.
Caboose Market & Cafe is located in historic downtown Ashland, Virginia. Follow them on social media for seasonal menu updates and tap list changes.
David Hunter leads Fans of Virginia Craft Breweries, the Commonwealth's largest Facebook community dedicated to Virginia craft beer, at facebook.com/groups/FansofVACB.
