By David Hunter
If you’re reading this, chances are you’re a fan of craft beer — and there’s an even better chance you’re a fan of Virginia craft beer specifically. And if that’s the case, you know the feeling of sitting down at a restaurant and discovering they not only have your Virginia favorites available, but a few you haven’t tried yet. That’s a good day.
That’s exactly the feeling I had when I first visited Urbanna Pearl Oyster Tavern. When I learned that owner Shawn Pickett had built his entire beer program around Virginia-made craft beer — every single one, no exceptions — it was that visit that inspired me to launch this series for VA Craft Beer Magazine, celebrating the restaurants across the Commonwealth that are embracing Virginia’s craft beer culture. Urbanna Pearl is where it all started.
The striking black exterior of Urbanna Pearl Oyster Tavern stands out from the moment you turn onto Cross Street in historic Urbanna, Virginia. Owner Shawn Pickett chose the name deliberately. “Urbanna’s kind of the pearl of the Rappahannock River,” he says with a smile, and after spending time in this cozy space, it’s hard to argue with him.
Shawn and his wife opened the doors on October 19, 2024 — just two weeks before the Urbanna Oyster Festival — with little more than raw oysters and a handful of snacks. Word spread fast. Festival crowds wandered in curious about that black building just off the beaten path, and the rest, as Shawn puts it, was history.
When you step inside, the front room sets the tone immediately — a small bar, several tables with black metal chairs, and a warm, welcoming energy that sits somewhere between a neighborhood pub and a proper tavern. A wine display wraps around a central column near the bar, offering a curated selection of Virginia favorites like Good Luck Cellars alongside wines from around the country for the connoisseurs in the room. It’s cozy, unpretentious, and a perfect fit for Urbanna.
Make your way toward the back and the vibe shifts. The rear room opens up into something altogether different — knotty pine shiplap walls covered in vintage nautical maps and maritime art, a mounted black bear, rustic wood tables, a cowhide rug spread across the concrete floor, and an antler chandelier anchoring it all from above. It feels like a well-appointed old hunting lodge met a Chesapeake Bay waterman’s den, and somehow it works perfectly.
The oyster menu is the undisputed star, with eight roasted and fried preparations — each named after a town or landmark along the Rappahannock River. The Deltaville Breeze, Tappahannock Hog, Water View Herbs, and Fredericksburg Artillery are just a few that tell the story of the river from the Blue Ridge Mountains all the way to the Chesapeake. Beyond oysters, the menu offers Tavern Bites, fresh salads, a Charcuterie Board, and a Land & Rivah sandwich section that splits neatly between land-based and seafood options — think a Cattleman roast beef on brioche alongside an Oyster Po Boy or Crab Cake sandwich. It’s a thoughtful, well-rounded menu that punches well above what you’d expect from a cozy local tavern.
Now, about that beer list.
Every single beer, cider, and ready-to-drink cocktail at Urbanna Pearl is Virginia-made. No exceptions. The idea came from Shawn’s wife, who grew up exploring Scott’s Addition breweries and the Charlottesville scene. “She said all Virginia,” Shawn recalls, “and I just ran with it.” The result is an impressively curated cooler spanning every style — Lagers, Pilsners, Ales, Wheats, IPAs, Porters, Stouts, Sours, and even Virginia Ciders — with nearly 50 options to choose from. And if beer isn’t your thing, the RTD cocktail list is equally all-Virginia, with standouts like the Belle Isle Transfusion, Waterbird Ranch Water, and the Coastal Cocktails Orange Crush leading the way. Honor Brewing’s Honor Light leads beer sales, a nod to the strong veteran community in the area, while Hardywood’s Richmond Lager and Devil’s Backbone’s Vienna Lager do a fine job converting the macro-loyal crowd one sip at a time — and more often than not, once they try one, they come back for another. Some even start working their way down the list.
And that’s one of the things I admire most about what Shawn is doing. He’s not just carrying the big names — he’s actively championing smaller producers. Dragon Run Brewing out of King and Queen County just landed on the menu, and on the day I visited, their Pilsner was featured right on the chalkboard specials alongside beers from some of Virginia’s most well-known breweries. To Shawn, a can from a small-batch operation deserves the same shelf space as one from a well-known regional brewery. “I think it’s cool to see a small place from King and Queen go against a Hardywood,” he says. Customers browsing the menu don’t necessarily know — or care — about a brewery’s size. They just know if the beer is good. And Shawn has his sights set on eventually adding draft beer to the lineup, with Dragon Run among the breweries he’s been talking to about what that could look like.
Shawn is also the man responsible for bringing Triple Crossing Brewing’s Falcon Smash to the Middle Peninsula. After calling Brown Distributing directly to make the case, Brown in turn worked with the local distributor to get it into the regional pipeline — meaning you can now pick it up at your favorite local spots without making the trip to Richmond. You’re welcome,
Middlesex County.
Looking ahead, Shawn has big plans for the lot just behind the tavern. With some serious brush clearing and landscaping work, he envisions an outdoor beer garden with a water view, a small bar, and a spot for live acoustic music. It’s an ambitious project — he’s targeting next summer — but given what he’s already built in less than a year, it’s hard to bet against him.
Urbanna Pearl Oyster Tavern is located at 161 Cross Street, Urbanna, Virginia. To stay current on their rotating beer selection and chalkboard specials, follow them on social media. And if you’re heading to the Rappahannock River this summer by boat or by road, make the turn. The pearl of Urbanna is worth finding.
David Hunter leads Fans of Virginia Craft Breweries, the Commonwealth’s largest Facebook community dedicated to Virginia craft beer.
